Kefalonia is a Greek island in the Ionian sea just 20 miles (32 kilometers) off the western coast of the mainland. Its majestic mountains, dramatic cliffs, pristine beaches, and sparkling sea make it a perfect summer getaway.

Greece—or at least Kefalonia—is very strict about foreign visitors having an international driver’s permit to supplement their home license. We weren’t prepared for this. We convinced the car rental agency to let us take the car anyway, but they warned us that if pulled over we would receive a hefty €1,000 fine, plus we’d have to cover the rental agency’s additional €1,000 fine. Fortunately, we were never pulled over.
Driving on Kefalonia was as stressful as anywhere we’ve ever driven. The roads are small, windy, and generally in poor condition. Local drivers are unpredictable. And there are an inordinate number of steep hill stops which will test any driver’s stick shift skills.
Kefalonian roundabout rules are the opposite of what you’d probably expect. In most of the world, traffic already in the roundabout has the right of way; in Kefalonia, traffic trying to enter the roundabout has the right of way. This means that if you’re driving in the roundabout, you’re meant to slow down or even stop to let new cars in.
Kefalonia is infamous for its aggressive wasps. It’s no joke. They’re everywhere: at the beaches, in the mountains, even around our Airbnb’s pool. Fortunately, we avoided getting stung.

Flew from London Gatwick to Kefalonia.
Rented car from Simotas Car Rental for the whole trip. We recommend using a highly-rated local car rental agency like this one over the big international chains.
Checked into our Airbnb and settled into Davgata, a small town 7 miles (11 kilometers) north of the airport with easy access to points on the southern end of the island.
Our Airbnb had a full kitchen which we used over the course of our stay to cook some of our meals using fresh ingredients from local grocery stores. We also picked lemons from the lemon tree on the Airbnb’s grounds and made fresh lemon water.

Hiked Mt. Ainos from the Environmental Center. Ran into a friendly pack of mountain goats.
Walked around Kastro and visited the Venetian Castle of St. George.
Lunch at Kastro Cafe in Kastro. Great food (vegetarian-friendly too), great views, friendly staff.
Il Borgo looked like a really nice option for lunch, but we didn’t go.
Lazed by the pool at our Airbnb.

Spent most of the day at Antisamos Beach. Snagged a pair of chairs in the front row. This ended up being one of our favorite beaches of all time.
Lunch at Antisamos Beach Bar. Actually pretty damn good food for a beach bar.
Dinner at Captain Nikolas in Paliki.

Checked out of our Airbnb and left Davgata.
Spent the first half of the day at Agia Kiriaki Beach. Got lucky with front-row chairs again. We suggest approaching the beach from the road to the west, otherwise, you’ll have to navigate a very rough road to the beach’s south.
Lunch at Agia Kiriaki Beach Bar.
Grabbed a snack at Myrtillo in Divarata. They’ve got tasty, refreshing juices perfect for a hot summer day.
We chose not to visit Myrtos Beach, one of Kefalonia’s most popular, but we made sure to appreciate its dramatic beauty from the viewpoint at 38.347676, 20.541524.
Arrived in Fiskardo and checked into our hotel. We parked in the free parking lot at 38.459124, 20.576561.
Our room had a full kitchen which we used over the course of our stay to cook some of our meals using fresh ingredients from local grocery stores.
Dessert at Melína in Fiskardo.

Breakfast at Palazzo Cafe in Fiskardo. Our hotel had an agreement with this cafe to serve the daily breakfast included in our booking.
Visited Assos for the first half of the day.
Walked up toward the Venetian Castle for amazing views back down toward the town.
Walked around the town. We especially enjoyed the area around 38.378939, 20.539969 for its picturesque views back toward the town.
Back in Fiskardo, we relaxed at Zavalata Beach.
Snacked at Milos / Windmill in Fiskardo.
Dessert at Melína in Fiskardo.

Rented a boat from Regina’s in Fiskardo.
North to south, we anchored at Xylokaravo Beach; the inlet at 38.431638 ,20.588408; Kamini Beach; the inlet at 38.422103, 20.594593; and the inlet at 38.411887, 20.596476. Renting little boats in places like this will forever be one of our favorite summer travel activities.
Back on land, a snack at Milos / Windmill in Fiskardo.
Takeaway dinner from Lagoudera in Fiskardo. We can’t speak for most of the menu, but the veggie gyros were delicious.

Drove to 38.468879, 20.544753 and hiked to Dafnoudi Beach. The beach is quiet thanks to the work needed to get there and the fact that there aren’t any services on the beach. Stayed there for the first half of the day.
Lunch at Picnic in Magganos.
Takeaway dinner from Lagoudera in Fiskardo.
Dessert at Dodoni in Fiskardo.